Monthly Archive: April 2010

Apr
19

Pain à l’Ancíenne

Pain à l'Ancíenne

This is the style of bread I think of most often when I think about a good artisan bread in America.  Pain à l’Ancíenne is a simple rustic dough that in this case benefits from a long slow fermentation.  The dough is a wet dough (more like ciabatta than a traditional french baguette). It ferments at refrigerator temperature for anywhere from 12 – 18 hours preferably.  It is best as a 2 day project, though I ended up making mine in one day, mixing the dough before work (at 4:30am) and doing the typical second day tasks after work (at 5:00pm).  This was also to be the first hearth style bread I’d make since installing the unglazed quarry tiles in my oven.  My plan was to use 2/3rds of the dough to make baguettes and the other 1/3 to make pizza dough.

Pain à l'Ancíenne Baguettes

I was pretty please with how the baguettes came out.  The one on the right in the picture below ended up a little darker, probably because it was baked by itself.  These were small baguettes, ranging from 6 – 8ish inches.  One became my lunch the next day…another breakfast the day after.  This dough also made a nice pizza dough.  I split the remaining dough into two portions and attempted to hand toss them into pizzas.  I’ve still got some work to do on getting that technique down.  I did manage to shape one into approximately a 12″ round, however it was a little thin in the middle (and probably a little over topped with ingredients).  The second portion I just couldn’t get to work and reluctantly through it out.  I was just getting too tired to try and save it (plus with a 550 degree oven going for the past few hours, it was pretty hot in the kitchen.  The dough made a great pizza dough and the quarry tiles worked better than the pizza stone since I didn’t have to try and aim it correctly on the round pizza stone.

Permanent link to this article: http://www.rhinoblues.com/thoughts/2010/04/pain-a-lancienne/

Apr
09

Casatiello

Casatiello_0001.JPG

Casatiello is a Brioche inspired bread.  The brioche-like dough is flavored with a cured meat (in this case Soppresetta) and a soft meltable cheese (Provolone with a bit of mozzarella).  Definitely a meal in a slice. 

Casatiello_0002.JPG
A very rich bread (with a bunch of butter mixed in the dough), there was no real danger of finishing off both loaves the same day.  This bread could have been shaped in a variety of ways, from roll size (in brioche tins or small lunch bags), to single round, or what I ended up doing…a regular bread pan.

Permanent link to this article: http://www.rhinoblues.com/thoughts/2010/04/casatiello/

Apr
03

Marbled Rye

marbledrye_0002.JPG

I’ve been making pastrami sandwiches for a lunch lately, so I was pretty excited to make some rye bread to complement them.  Plus there was the added fun of a marbled bread!

The tricky thing with a marbled loaf is you need to have both doughs having similar fermentation time.  For this reason having everything mise en place is especially important for this loaf.  Each of the doughs, are essentially identical, except the darker one has an added coloring agent.  I used unsweetened chocolate dissolved in water as my coloring agent.

After proofing, the loaves get an egg wash right before baking to give the nice crust you see below.

marbledrye_0000.JPG

The bread tasted great, it made for a really nice Pastrami sandwich the next day.  I also brought it into work and shared with the folks at work.  They liked it so much that one of my co-workers offered to pay me to make her some more.

Permanent link to this article: http://www.rhinoblues.com/thoughts/2010/04/marbled-rye/

Apr
02

Lavash Crackers

lavish_0001.JPG

Lavash crackers are the Armenian version of flatbreads that are common among many different cuisines throughout the world (naan, pita, tortillas, etc.).  In fact, this dough has much in common with naan and pita.  Like those two breads, it is traditionally baked in a Tandoor oven.  Thankfully, these can still be made in a conventional oven quite well.

lavish_0000.JPG

To bake these, I rolled out the dough as thin as possible and then placed it on parchment on a sheet pan.  I used a pizza cutter to pre-cut half of the dough into triangles, leaving the other half to break apart as they would.  I flavored the crackers with black sesame seeds, Hungarian paprika, kosher salt, and caraway seeds.  (I may have overdone the paprika section though.)

Permanent link to this article: http://www.rhinoblues.com/thoughts/2010/04/lavash-crackers/